Hilmi Pasha has been the Viceroy of Macedonia for three years. He understands better than anyone how difficult it has been to achieve lasting peace in the region. Despite all the problems, he continues in his role because the Sultan has ordered him to stay Hilmi Pasha A Key Figure in Macedonia.
Problems with the Police in Macedonia
One of the major issues in Macedonia is with the gendarmerie, or police force. The police are uneducated, poorly paid, and often have to survive by taking bribes. They rarely solve crimes unless they are paid to do so. To improve this situation, a Gendarmerie School was set up in Salonika under pressure from foreign countries. This school is led by Major Bonham, a skilled officer who knows how to persuade the Turks to follow rules, rather than forcing them.
Bonham’s Babies
The recruits at the school are jokingly called “Bonham’s Babies.” Major Bonham is like a father to them, and the peasants who come from the mountains are very fond of him. It’s interesting to see how much affection they have for him, even though many of them are shy and inexperienced Istanbul Tour Guides.
The Short Training Time
Major Bonham doesn’t have much time to train the men, as most only stay for about four months. In that short time, he manages to teach them to march in a European style and helps them develop some character. However, the fear is that once these men return to their villages, they may go back to their old habits, especially with the influence of their fellow soldiers, who do not respect European ways.
A Visit to the School
I spent a morning at the Gendarmerie School and was struck by how poor the recruits’ physical condition was. These were the best men they could find. In the last group of 300 peasants, 90% were rejected because they didn’t have enough strength or endurance.
Results Despite Difficulties
Even though the recruits are not ideal, Major Bonham is happy with the progress. The Turkish authorities are not very enthusiastic about the school and are reluctant to fund it. However, the men themselves are eager to learn. They work hard, but Major Bonham treats them well, and they appreciate his kind words.
Improving Life for Officers
Major Bonham also improved life for the Turkish officers. Before he came, they had nowhere to relax except the cafes. Now, they have a large, comfortable room with carpets and decorations. They have plenty of newspapers to read and, instead of drinking alcohol, they only drink water. The officers spend their free time learning French.
